The night was fresh, the thermometer reached 13°C in the morning. For the second night Trevor did not sleep well, because he was cold.
As we had less hours to drive today, we were able to take it easy a bit, have a nice warm shower and enjoy a longer more relaxed breakfast. We did the dishes and packed in while the sun had already peeked over the hill and warming our camping spot.

After we had paid and said farewell, we first drove into the direction we wanted to go today, north, further up into the Dades Valley. Soon, I realised, that there will probably not be a petrol station along the entire route of today. Quickly asked a kiosk owner, who confirmed my suspicion and the decision was taken to turn around, drive out of the valley to the next major town and look tor a petrol station there. Yesterday’s tour was heavy on Eeyore’s thirst and the tank was less than half full and in view of today’s route, I didn’t want to risk running out of fuel on a mountain pass at 2,600m.
Therefore, back the way we came and into the town of Boulmane Dades. The Shell station was quickly found, both cars and the petrol bottle for the stove were filled to the brim. We also found a hardware shop for Trevor to buy a new hammer. His Chinese model had given up after just three tent pegs the first day. Happy days!

With full tanks, we could finally start our today’s tour. Past the camping in Ait Youl again and into the beautiful valley. We reached the magnificent gorge that is just a few of tens of meters wide and has enough space for a small river bed and a concrete road with sometimes just one lane. What and incredible sight. Many pictures were snapped, as we had the gorge almost completely to ourselves.

On we drove, following the stream that became a dry river bed at some point the further we climbed into the mountains. The landscape became rough and the vegetation less and less until there were only rocks. Big rocks. The tarred road had turned into a gravel piste and we passed the 2,000m mark. In front of us a large mountain range, that we wanted to conquer via the Tizi n’Ouano or Ouano Pass. We further climbed the mountain via a single rocky track, that hardly left a margin of error. Along we met apart from a few locals, some tourists in a Kia Piccanto, struggling with the steep rocky track down, a single British lady on a heavy motorbike, well equipped and experienced, as well as three guys on a rented 50cc moped with camping gear on their bikes. In my humble opinion, possible but most unsuitable for this terrain and route. They looked determined to reach the valley floor alive and well, as they did not have time to greet. With any oncoming vehicle the heartbeat increased even further. Where can we find a spot wide enough to pass each other? Will he find one and stop first, or where can I find one? Fortunately it always worked out, although passing a Spanish camper was just millimetres between me and him.

This time we did not immediately crossed over the mountain, but drove alongside for a few kilometres giving us a spectacular view of the vast and empty valley. We reached the summit at 2910 meters, making the Tizi n’Ouano, according to my research, the second highest mountain pass in Morocco.
After this struggle getting up there, we treated ourselves to a small lunch, crackers and cheese corners.

At the summit, were also two guys preparing themselves for their descent. One on a high quality race bicycle and the other to follow him in his Renault Clio. We later caught up with them on our way down.
The northern side of the pass was already rebuilt, a nice wide tarred road, that cut through hills rather than going around them in sharp bends. This in sharp contrast to the southern side, that was still the original pass from way back when, rough gravel and single track. A bit of adventure is lost when such passes are straightened and tarred over.

We got to Agoudal, a small town in the middle of a bare landscape, surrounding a small valley with water and therefore some vegetation, gardens and orchards.
We turned south again and now followed the National Route 12 into one of the most impressive and stunning gorges in Morocco, the Todgha Gorge. First we drove across a massive plain with just a bit of grass as vegetation.

We had another mountain pass, Tizi n’Tirherhouzine, on our way before we could descend into the Gorge. With its 2709 meters, it was another one in the top five for us. Our collection is almost full now. This one was rather unspectacular, as it is tarred on both sides and in good shape. We quickly passed over it.
Then, we slowly descended and followed the dry river bed of the Todgha River. After we had passed a massive dam across the river and further followed the road into the gorge.
We turned a bend and the massive rock walls rose on both sides several hundred meters high. We were stunned.

Every bend of the river had carved itself deeper into the limestone, every bend the rock formations looked different, every bend had us stop again to snap pictures. With the low sun light the rocks and the shadows sometimes started to look mystical.

It is one of the most touristic places, we have come across so far (apart from Marrakech). Several groups of motorbikers hammered through the canyon. Rental cars with tourists as well as large RVs could be seen.
The last 600 metres of the Todgha gorge are certainly the most spectacular but also the most touristic ones. Here the canyon narrows to a flat stony track, in places as little as 10 metres wide, with sheer and smooth rock walls up to 160 metres high on each side. At the bottom, next to the road, hawkers are trying to make a buck from the many tourists flocking about. On the other side of the riverbed, that starts to see some water from a natural spring, a picturesque hotel is situated against the rock, that can only be reached by walking across a few stepping stones in the river.
After a few pictures, we moved on, as that was too much tourism for us.
The gorge widened and we saw direct sunlight again. The last kilometres we drove along lush gardens and orchards.

At the camping, we were shown around and were given the choice to setup anywhere we wanted. Charlotte and Trevor chose one plot and Brahim and me took the adjacent one. The plots are in a lush garden with many trees and bushes.
Because of the prohibition of making a fire, due to the trees, we changed our dinner plans and had yummy brochettes of beef and mutton with salad and fries in the hotel’s restaurant.
For the first time, we are not the only guests at the camping.