Today we had a great breakfast at the Riad that we were staying at and then headed into the alleyways of the Fes Medina. 

Trevor wanted to go to the area where they specialise in leather goods. Google maps is not good for navigating the small and narrow streets as our experience of finding the hotel proved yesterday. Many stores along the way were not yet open and at one point, while trying to figure out exactly where we were on the map, a guy asked is what we were looking for. These are often tourist traps to lure you into an unplanned guided tour. The guy said he would show us the way and we would never have found the place, nor found our way back afterwards. 

At the large leather store they took us to the rooftop which overlooks one of the oldest tanneries in Fes. Because of the cold so early in the morning, the shopkeeper said that they would only start a bit later once the sun was shining on that area. He explained the various baths that are used in the process including soaking the hide in pigeon poop for a few days !

The shop had beautiful leather goods (jackets, shoes, bags, belts, etc.) but nothing that we really wanted. We tried to knock down the price of a painting done on a piece of leather that is also beautiful, but he wouldn’t go low enough so we left it. Hopefully we will see similar things elsewhere or in Chefchaouen.

We then strolled back in the direction of the hotel, which was uphill, and finally to the “blue gate” which is the name of the main entrance to the Medina where the car was parked. Without the guide, we would likely have walked twice as far.

Trevor took a walk down one of the streets to see some landmarks nearby and then we went to the car, filled up with diesel (including 20 l for the jerrycan as it is 20% cheaper than at home) and headed to the synagogue in the old Jewish quarter. Charlotte decided to stay in the car rather than walk the 500 metres to the synagogue. Another “guide” latched on to Trevor but it was made clear to him that Trevor did not want a guide. He continued until just before the synagogue and told Trevor it was around the corner and asked for money. Trevor told him he did not want a guide and do did not give him anything, much to his fury. The synagogue was small and had been renovated about 10 years ago. Just a few blocks from the synagogue is the Royal Palace which one can only view from the outside.

It was time to leave Fes and head to our final official tourist destination of the trip, the blue city of Chefchaouen.

The vegetation when we left Fes was quite dry with treeless, rolling yellowish hills. Charlotte said that it was wheat which was beginning to sprout. As we drove further (Chefchaouen is about 3 hours away along a windy road) the vegetation changed, trees emerged and it became more green with large orchards of citrus. 

At around 13.30 we saw some smoke in one of the villages that we drove through, the signs of grilling being done, so we stopped at one of them, hoping to have our usual lamb chops. Alas, this place only did grilled mince patties, which were nevertheless very tasty. It was interesting that the guy at this place was the third person that we had met in the last 2 days who could not speak French but could speak more English. The other two who spoke perfect English were the waiter at the Chinese restaurant and the host at the hotel (they both spoke Arabic so presumably they were also Moroccan). The guy at the grill explained that at school he learnt Arabic and a bit of English but refused to learn French !

As we drove further we entered more green, mountainous terrain and olives were being delivered to the many olive oil mills that were along the road, at some of them they lay in big heaps on the ground while at others they were in big bags. There were also yellow patches in some areas, possibly fruit trees like peaches and some maple like trees.

The city of Chefchaouen suddenly emerges against the hillside as one rounds a corner and the pale blue, at that distance, is not as striking as it is from nearby. Again the hotel, Casa Amina, is in the old town where there are only narrow alleyways for pedestrians. There is a parking garage nearby so we parked there and walked up many steps for the 500 metres walk to the hotel. The hotel is similar to the one in Fes, a small multiple story Riad with a few rooms, all blue decor of course.